Japan Winter Itinerary Part 2. An Intimate Visit to Kanazawa Geisha District – Higashi Chaya
My First Cultural Experience of Geisha in Kyoto
On my first trip to Japan a few years ago, I had an opportunity to tour a geisha district in Kyoto. Gion is the most famous geisha district in Japan, known for its teahouse (ochaya) and geisha culture. I was thrilled to sign up for a professionally guided Gion Walking Tour.
To my disappointment, I later learned that traditional Japanese teahouses follow a strict referral-based admittance policy. This means only regulars — typically upper-class Japanese businessmen — of these teahouses are allowed in. The invitations are only extended to those referred by already-admitted guests. It sounded as if it is a fraternity for wealthy, middle-aged men. Boo!
Even after joining the officially recognized guide tour, I didn’t get to set foot in the door. While the group tour helped me understand the traditional teahouse culture, I only got to see the exteriors of the authentic teahouses—not the ones for tourists—and the geisha dormitory. The guide did spot a real-life geisha; unfortunately, she quickly “floated” away into the back alley so that my eyes didn’t catch her. Apparently, they are trained to discreetly walk that way in public.
The life of a geisha is kept beyond the veil for so long, making a geisha a mysterious creature that arouses curiosity. It was possible partly because of the limited public access and partly because of misunderstanding about who a geisha really is.
This post is part of Winter in Japan Series:
- Part 1.Things to Do in Kanazawa in Two Days
- Part 2. Behind the Closed Doors of Geisha House in Kanazawa
- Part 3. Where to Stay in Kanazawa: Kanazawa Hotel Review
- Part 4. Things to Do in Toyama: Toyama City Guide for the First-timers
- Part 5. Shirakawago Winter Light Up Festival
- Part 6. Where to Stay in Takayama: Takayama Hotel Review
- Part 7. What to Expect from Traditional Japanese Ryokan Stay
- Part 8. What to Wear in Japan: Japan Winter Season Edition
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What is Japanese Geisha?
Geisha in Japanese means “person of art.” A geisha is a female entertainer who is highly trained in traditional Japanese arts, music, and dance. Geishas entertain male guests by singing, dancing and playing musical instruments at conventional Japanese teahouse. They are not a prostitute.
You might be surprised to learn that young girls first need to go to a geisha school for professional training. These girls in their apprenticeship are called maiko. Once they graduate from school, they officially become a geisha.
Why Visiting a Geisha House in Kanazawa?
After the slightly disappointing Kyoto Gion experience, I was super excited to learn that I can step into an authentic teahouse in Kanazawa Geisha District!
Higashi Chaya has successfully preserved Japanese edo-era teahouses. These geisha houses in Kanazawa have historical and cultural significance; Kanazawa geishas still perform ceremonies and customs handed down from edo geishas.
Higashi Chaya: Kanazawa Geisha District
Two of the teahouses in Higashi Chaya in Kanazawa is open to the public. I decided to stop by both Shima and Kaikaro Teahouses. These teahouses don’t really advertise themselves with a big English sign. In fact, any authentic ones would not need to do so. I was able to recognize the front exterior from the Kanazawa map I picked up from the JR station.
Shima Teahouse
Address: 1-31-21 Higashiyama, Kanazawa, Ishikawa [Google Map]
Tel: (81) 076-252-5675
Hours: 9 am – 6 pm; No closing days
Admission: 500 Yen (Cash Only)
Tea Ceremony: 750 Yen
When I slide-opened the wooden door of Shima Teahouse, a lady in Kimono inside an office greeted me. After I paid 500 yen, I received a brochure, took off my shoes, then finally another layer of a door was opened for me to get in. I was asked to put away my purse into a locker (free) before proceeding. No selfie sticks or bulky professional cameras were allowed.
Inside was dark and cold without an ounce of heat in the air. Given it was a snowy day in the middle of January, I was expecting to warm myself up a bit inside. Since I took off my insulated winter boots, my feet were freezing on the cold tatami floor – a traditional Japanese mat woven with rice straw.
READ MORE | What to Wear in Japan: Japan Winter Season Edition
I first was guided into the second floor through the stairwell. There, I saw “endless” annexing rooms, divided by sliding doors (“fusuma”). Only after reading the brochure, this unique room arrangement made sense to me. In chaya (or ochaya; teahouse), customers would sit in a guest room (“zashiki”), and geishas would perform singing and dancing in the adjunct waiting room (“hikae-no-ma”).
